朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFKBafBIw4m
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnm3jbZXzDQ
「這麼早？」旭仔問。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRnj8zBHDaz
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4D7KUiK8hb
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfwHSXJOuGQ
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHSlZZz85Xe
「是啊，要趕路了。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIrDCJARW5f
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhMfgFHJoRY
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrQALOhCaYD
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPaxkljlSA1
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEPerFMaXBO
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4oxf58oAuN
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvf1NyQ2ADp
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf66brOGQeT
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSkuiC7NJWp
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡixH6K6s2bX
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLDW9avZXbU
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8fDiN0y2YO
「謝謝你。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0R7SSwPMBy
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡROnsSk9Z11
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ742Nh0Gklk
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡegERW3NQbI
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzia1CMycCa
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjo6XYKR4Lp
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJkVJ6t9j5G
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfNiSXN0UKX
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyz6wmX0mhw
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBarq2oJH2n
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQI8EZOtINW
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb6LhlduUiC
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXIQ3hbmcuZ
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSNA1JdQvtn
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8b0XMxoRZ
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZlqjs8Nvkq
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqO5lBXJRBw
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvzXXzbngUv
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl3ko0ogC27
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQNh7trz0Z8
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKlCpWwHnUA
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP6WhcmkciK
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlc2j5LCXXR
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoGNWwsuyaa
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd8eOFik3Td
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZXPZB8FTwb
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGWtCwEyYNT
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcgME1CBSA1
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmkkNENErZw
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlT0D3vj63Y
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpPj7xssXw2
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCQxyrso7BH
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtcp2ZDtVsq
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTxod4oJI1Q
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUr4a8vOeLf
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJoRNfZDViz
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcbhgVlqijM
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPgNsQX21SA
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAeJvCyJbN1
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZWFZITsz0P
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDIvR1hGMCZ
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIy1zk9OQjZ
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSTDhsYhcT5
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgI2SHT6STd
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcvJSbDH6VN
「是的。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVHoYAu2jqS
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk1atlsPKpj
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRNPUkyfpRx
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4mbLZ5Ia4J
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUH5u5S6hUu
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPBBKHse4cE
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYIywnvPGm7
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvAszBk1OCk
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYZC3EnEyo3
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTXfJ4053Dz
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ62pxN1hrA9
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq5QFxd9eIZ
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9penbEKISH
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxBzPdx8hAe
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1eMQ2ZuCfM
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi3V7R6QpJk
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡunOzlUZUEn
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoJs45SSJf0
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2VFZI1cCKf
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡET65Px6rTu
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc0BugCrl0t
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUNr0LVeqcG
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXU2jIR3abK
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5v4K5p26Dm
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqVSMOc50eS
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLkzMqD3C9B
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsp3lflIRUC
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMs8xus4Doe
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlxQzEU3y4m
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRrSD1NfcBq
「太好了！」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1GS647ksqp
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFCUfHsF90x
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLPH9Iz17v9
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE2XBA9cm3v
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxNiYldYSNb
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPvvBeS5kyg
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwNVhTVOi4O
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxoQBEkP8Wz
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpRJgTlacNc
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf2zAImLsGX
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj4O0lMLdmE
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdW0uZYCo79
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXKEi2S1gjo
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAgg6LJ0oAy
「好。」旭仔答。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYt3HQX82H8
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2K2wqEQWkD
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRr2eieN9yp
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgAK3NuZQQs
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ75OuvVQ8Cy
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5miZPA59Fw
旭仔淺嘗一口。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQc6hL0lDhU
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWUwdPAzLOe
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUHSsAhtKMz
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyMdXuYapF9
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLdlGjIIXuk
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkAhDL44v22
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK9R0LE5i5N
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSihHSR27bg
「好喝。」旭仔答。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1ttS4YSwK6
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPzeG7gEwwf
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvggkxZ06L4
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLBWkhIthfy
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzvCG7msolV
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBqWv98EOxm
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv3zwVUDQtc
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoc6OtItLar
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIgxfC3DaH6
617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX2hOgpwHB7
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。617Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYovlrPcj8T
