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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjVFwCCIASk
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnAB5Mvudq7
「這麼早？」旭仔問。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI2khwqRtWA
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD6Fxmt7U4J
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN7eSel6TAU
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOTTLf2pJcd
「是啊，要趕路了。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaDuiDYCk6R
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlIHjCGD1F9
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvq86Z7DiMf
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrFot8lGVM1
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi1rrZDEfdr
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4fs6IUO6co
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH2SQsMMycm
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIGIDLqiYR4
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2lap9olWlA
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGnG5QJYrgj
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRKuE0WZUab
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX9JFihasQT
「謝謝你。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKg79b1JASp
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtLIi1SxfLW
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1yGGSjvPKY
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4QHxuZeT1G
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdobKKsDZR2
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5JmQ7vDJci
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCVYo8ioRsh
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0iduOsU5TW
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnhI5pkTMji
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdG2zcIaKkm
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy8zMJpe7MG
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIPhfwEyGFd
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCz1X5LplNd
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡroFcmJT8eE
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY8uQIaDUPW
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMChIE15lYi
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIOKLG1jUfM
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtNib6sxbbG
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZVjkSWhxu1
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ43R2ENjkLr
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDL4P48Yi9d
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLnmZoPyrJa
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNJXARGRMnw
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdrNJhOnSXN
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbseOk1cc5e
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡryAxQ90hpn
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP7TU8siOZ7
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLYw0qC8IKD
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlRUkpfEeBe
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3FrsEi5CRV
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmf5ikACKE9
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfoTp6YZkq9
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhmzOEKF1dU
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNJgp0pe7UH
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIDY53FMADw
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8N5hnehrl7
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtzAgLTcQG2
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlSRZEWTgJ9
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0HWsZPmv88
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGsFS01g0y8
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTNFYKLsRPB
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX3tikmiRTF
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuJv1CO9p5b
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFDZODCfKKW
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4Mp1uQ952L
「是的。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxUEGrJXTt8
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe4xUJx5Alh
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7O8OJktoGq
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQudL5lIqHm
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡujyvmZzeFv
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ieBnUo0wb
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOPvjHlFR2q
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOGGWBLKvm4
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZTzmCA6s4A
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4h3MVzkDtk
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUvqAJgeF1O
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr1r8K997hZ
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡemXaRscAHX
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYhyC0o41bK
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTVnv3vPPWo
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA6pgNRhUTN
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1TOed0v7iZ
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxze3a44Nl9
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbCYTJhUu3D
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyztzZf0xyx
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8J1IFvPAur
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTJFQgwNpDX
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuKRXJGmKv7
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5cPObEoXBk
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAUcV9nxFLK
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ4LrTJ0W4X
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8jNJAlkEYy
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaowYBd3ZFR
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiTzVyKEvsY
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbG7mBwliWJ
「太好了！」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaHBIL1aVw5
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVHBnefcaGa
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg1EFFUHfjI
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoKFyzZDR7H
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVrL7TzcjEi
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcnlHpG6r6j
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSjBYetIvx4
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqHM7rIKyNw
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ53qPNXKX54
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRcslpKf09H
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiQXRinBehr
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDGaRGaYLwi
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡehboq2ugek
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmqgGinVlLz
「好。」旭仔答。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKwfwKzfRPy
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL9yYER5szJ
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW1IO883GKa
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTtPUiTl5SJ
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpfpOOgJeM3
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4GPjkzqCWC
旭仔淺嘗一口。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHLCwupd7fM
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWl1A5ndAs5
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6uElRz21dK
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZuLNjazflQ
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡptm35DloIZ
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYt5EjnbgEc
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2lvvuRTARS
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp2EyLHEuEW
「好喝。」旭仔答。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2jdWDopFF7
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8QQ0jlWzYS
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGhnM2eaSmG
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8QhV4YUAiX
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3gwM8sB9hI
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhT8m39gitW
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkjehrP4Rh0
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtkG4ckp9u5
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRDx6gJYdY0
611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcM0rXNMfNG
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。611Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ94m60nKrnv
