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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgvsEjztLhT
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGYXIseOx1W
「這麼早？」旭仔問。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRdnYB92Q6D
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEoHzcmJEaX
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8i3nxPyb8s
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOmQuCKH2oL
「是啊，要趕路了。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJOFG0ix3jw
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLRJT17w7s4
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPHCqXaLD2U
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzNlDQ3gUpZ
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfIcsv7U0ka
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxJ1Q4EPogT
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpEKxSgDQc9
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjB9PKIdLqR
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtGbmiwLRum
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtqCcXqRhp8
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpvvJzBuLtW
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3F4dQ34SUn
「謝謝你。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH4sIpjVPQq
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjuvDLq2AFa
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF00311WJHw
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ35MNoHoFH9
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCkr0kWQAB6
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡthERnffgnb
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtnA7fblVeV
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeG96OGNJKP
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡolmzdN6EwS
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiNB1FpS8iP
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK1LVNnmc84
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmFDZxL4miP
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaTg1WvgyN8
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvDMO4coEhq
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoVlzMzZq2Y
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH7hVcx0Ifd
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIoINdUIPLV
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaXfdLKDeuo
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhJ3tc41R4b
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcFeRL9frHS
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw7dOfYxi1n
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIgJErTKoAk
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUaCaSqUXng
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ5PE6pxHlL
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCJ74ykmlrQ
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4wwOje7ptG
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPBavulKR7R
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu4WJHr1iZL
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTDBe87AFLm
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB4cj5TsTz5
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEwD4MYBWFV
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzxm0xJuA2Z
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFH7jjSRc3s
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWxRXKxJQrS
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLsXDoGwfV6
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfllATWObu9
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBsGFHB7Ynu
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIjcGXeiSJh
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNLZFNe3oQX
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbIbNmFt8j0
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc5ihrmgPCJ
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡonxjM3QdYJ
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvmtOcnOzbs
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzLu5VLmQVd
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdOfzeJv42i
「是的。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnrQRFdKFSX
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXYtANKXPYw
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSG4fQQ2tWk
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKBNhPpn0hI
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5XtsGDGt2A
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnoJfmBmssV
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgm5RBNeGM6
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmqHtLryUxd
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyQRrvQK0ST
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRlJvlAOf1u
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuoymtbIaaA
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdLpVm2CVZ4
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuDquuLAV4X
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQPzTPYRcK1
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP4VA195cHZ
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLVYtWClgGo
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwpfxQ8Sx5y
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC6sdYQDVXv
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWY7bHDryQP
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG5RLQ27SDY
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKImAKCrEjz
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2Og4amWJRL
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoa7rVcecKQ
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp1izGQ2kdP
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDtT4v2gZaI
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRRcFghrZEn
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡerdQEqDM5w
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEvN6gBEMa9
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXUzoPa1I1E
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXLcDYNAyfH
「太好了！」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL4qUWaeptx
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl7V40PP6Hw
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6i7RBiwVXL
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡobChEAno5C
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9NiXqSvlO2
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZSmoTT5ZW9
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDIBC7ihrwD
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo96MhXDkjr
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvI5k62QCD7
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUbv2W5gkph
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVGG7gPVJQL
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5Jz4j10Vc9
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5d9pSfdzp5
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyp6kKs1eU1
「好。」旭仔答。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQJ8H5GzgCR
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzzmjx2Jg4n
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrGUEOvNbxd
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0mQdkwrzs3
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz6gV8l3Vzd
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHCwUKOGccD
旭仔淺嘗一口。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfT55veXVO8
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDwVMzPPjt8
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZG2cuV3tWP
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuTVgDGAhxp
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRuATxR42Z7
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnH5ZhBQ7aC
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh1F1JtHvoL
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx6MML3DNIC
「好喝。」旭仔答。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCsme9rtixl
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2BCmUuyExT
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡka5EhgJbOb
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrr4NhSEnvo
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj5xoUeISJz
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ36WcZNke7v
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLOqF9dEpMX
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6nf7UOaqP1
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ56e04jORXY
544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzMOjKVoFAg
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。544Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK6Nz3ZxHzx
