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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk0OJ8EyQLA
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2rYJu77cY9
「這麼早？」旭仔問。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeWHenY1AhU
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdf0jD6oW8o
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXsPNjQgjoS
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1iofE2GIcX
「是啊，要趕路了。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCikbhSXnoc
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRhzZ75MlKO
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq8qP3neNKc
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcKqv5YnKAI
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaTk0QvoBGc
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmvI22XRDNd
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAObBL7Htb2
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQeQRwA1pMR
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeg5u7uV8vS
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi5RD7fWrpl
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHZoTVIrO1u
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡziz4pXkzTQ
「謝謝你。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaYbR0pvJSx
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOt4WQm93oV
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyWCLohywtk
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK6YIx73XTi
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw7Z109yX1y
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMqFz782yT2
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4Ng8zyosnd
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡciKoPteQkD
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQleTGPh0TE
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWRWqm1vSvg
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpza9qBGyWE
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZVOeG2ju1K
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkPvpOiCarp
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgiK5ao9rOX
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt9T5e1q8Va
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOiQWxDnJKu
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt64Ljlh0tT
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyvMsSpeRsu
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKkTj8HGC6N
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKmd7O8SsIF
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOEZh7QJA41
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU6dlcNsDC9
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLKB5aMGhNm
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGLKji56wDS
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLZErVHtSmP
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhIWZHVHA6M
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnohudsGF0K
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRsBsIZxFs5
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ25DczYvrNU
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj6pnHmQpsd
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSFaJGblqug
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ60zvRmpta
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgx3wGXK9Ur
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr0aeCFjzQf
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCm1nsaaMJn
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdaePIj5saA
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTwiBnTYKdW
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxJoy3a9dAZ
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJLOR1xKtu3
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnCSvLRwYr3
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp3B4XkI3Hf
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOrKYtzXIHn
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡst1TAc49w2
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0gyBVBHewS
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdGSxTBLEzl
「是的。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrJLuUCBOIg
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡywxwzmDst2
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh3Rjow9NKh
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRuXUqZGZgW
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE5Xj2G4PQ8
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyLW7XGUHjQ
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHrs00XnHrL
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡapaJqLrK6r
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbe7agadl3n
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhwgfiPYZ7F
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZTSq1Rheor
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJQQsguOiqO
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡudgb9ujmeA
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHo1dQ9CiX3
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz7bKS6h2uz
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUFn43uHVfx
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJkUbRUrP1D
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDKR461OWzt
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡanXJpw9Jz1
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgzkJHYPBjt
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxlXNg5XZJL
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCPgw0HfHKX
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpfkPIQ2upG
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHtKvHnyP7s
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsOls7oYZ5q
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlf5Z1Q1H0o
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRtQM5w2F9Z
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡadxi1b17MT
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjm1AijyaBu
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpF2jgzE9W0
「太好了！」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0SZIytWvWX
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn9NNj9HYhi
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ9dE4Jg5al
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl0mH9wT2xi
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrClY6NOKEk
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTeYCrqjx7t
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyaRQbaJFaC
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjyaF3Y7nl5
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ65vidlSyMK
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6SwUd15h9A
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbaf4WUkaPv
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm9Niy8aToF
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyjmdkinABY
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtKQItTQP0C
「好。」旭仔答。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6Zjye1ybk0
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡclPSaNFTwr
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkMQkQn5K6T
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMjdCK72yRI
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc74tzOBPsF
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkK7zG9md5W
旭仔淺嘗一口。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF9vrw2nhK2
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPDyzOYsq8q
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1KL79kTtKK
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjTKyeG14nh
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzNOEcBJLf2
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnmb5QrvTJv
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj7uFLiGYwb
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu6SDMLkxwd
「好喝。」旭仔答。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEBV32j76xQ
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi4MphWgsun
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJdP3sViSjv
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfuQ2WJwBt7
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJStXxE7OMI
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmgBypLxMFo
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBdJMFY8x3p
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb8Kb59r9vm
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡykJOyZAZrl
550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbJnuTTQxt3
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。550Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgZYLdX990C
