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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj0pWA3uOiO
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPDWLP7uDuh
「這麼早？」旭仔問。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmp8IxIxVxM
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9ibhZBvAE1
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9xmoJe6bno
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm4FsKpjQZW
「是啊，要趕路了。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyE2MzMHrzi
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdNKCFPK4kr
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHlCAWjaXAh
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8esrtf33dv
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMtPhyheU50
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeyXnPrDzAv
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw5RGKWcun7
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLsCt749mN3
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6C7YYSGAvB
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoyTiyjeJOJ
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWVlV0bwkkI
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcm0sDvCwDW
「謝謝你。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfCBdGUEyGL
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ1gFCRLGU0
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnxHyXC0Far
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDcd22ms7eH
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgeLmUoHnw0
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡavKGHCB5e4
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡecifLUF0RO
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP6WaqgY933
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYzXAe5WtrV
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6GIWDWolgB
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHde7XM2RnX
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRjpjMUdaJh
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFUgjCl1bx8
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXcylwRzjan
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGOQGUOyQ2Y
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGJQUgzO4i2
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKRbFv8HGXj
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGZXEwbQ0hh
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuIBxeOMraw
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMjoGgDFGzQ
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx1KBeK7gEQ
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7AXxiOG67Q
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtreAFlhMz7
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1B7SMW9qh0
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0ew09d8vZ8
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyZOLBjG6Ai
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc5UkJ3txHP
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg1oicoCRd2
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF04pkBQbVy
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX6E9NuSxQ2
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy6O2fGMcPR
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCZW2VAeiHF
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKsQk7sHYWV
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqCk96UDHmZ
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbVStWZHIj9
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ16IlyjJoiL
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrNYZk1BA6G
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfebiFqFplp
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUI1yNhqSvu
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnF7KecKy0R
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQnvrHnfoap
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ889ATJiJjK
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0eShDyo30c
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGOjdNYma3S
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVkrMvKt5Mq
「是的。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvhzeKVewqt
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiRDtyhUPCO
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvHQE8DtOiq
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCWEBqfdIgI
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwaYrCRVIS6
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSHmpe4BTkG
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVkxTK0EtOx
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuSgutvBjl7
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8ORsDhJIT
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0XH55phUAE
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡegoChDkQiE
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5SFy3iaBsx
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDP0cVvUYe0
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTDd8AIxSdQ
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG7Ak2zQGRA
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡegDhSuFz4Q
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa0mDoviqvt
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxekqkH1pnc
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJTPV0SQlw4
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsyK6nkbtZD
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo0P1gkQzUL
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1o5nb4qQ90
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlhLXwml3Q8
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu6S9WQ3Sdr
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCLrG5Vb91F
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq68arCdrH2
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN4QAyQ2fQx
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ88stKyjvxe
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7CFB6atleu
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡElt3OB1Dex
「太好了！」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwTC19rAZ2n
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpj8WAueO58
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2BKXpXzcrd
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5tUyYQRXSB
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡABrgUfVoqy
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDNVgfOUK2S
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSv148e9VTt
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8kW2YGxPFv
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6oxNz0ZmNB
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCJe3yKdQme
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh1o83zTcZD
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKkacBlJuVc
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUXSHC7HeiS
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmzIC84K7kw
「好。」旭仔答。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtpVOF7mojc
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjljAXcKXPO
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtpCnu4oYB1
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPsz03Ku7VO
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgPF8HA0NaC
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh6GZSiocZ2
旭仔淺嘗一口。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9WsGT7WG7G
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡymg9ICNE7o
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwgJMCY7vHV
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbo4nW9CbV8
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvTIHwfybzv
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5HOSKtL0Y6
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0TiL4p7gsJ
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwkEsLKy3kN
「好喝。」旭仔答。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu3KtaxqDPy
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQV8EPQwncV
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMBC4ERifpC
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVTRDWwPx9V
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDPHh1KVAnJ
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4UvGIX3ZWy
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ7f1cHYfDk
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ83tYfccU87
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUDbvFoJzf4
520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeLVbzi6LmZ
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。520Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqldenNimfZ
