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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcnlTt04rAI
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfd73TIKr3O
「這麼早？」旭仔問。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn30knVEyc5
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ63hR4JKtYp
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6hHg5BzhBV
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr3mK4BTK8V
「是啊，要趕路了。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9nc5Vvr6ii
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4m0V8nD7QF
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvgqw7acgge
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtzcqN5FSQy
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEMcuoyaRUw
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpXf2xGB4WV
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRizKlZG3dv
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF1mibxyag4
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLWDxPcGvx3
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1RDpDRrg1A
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUFjjDosTfa
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7HyCWnUc6d
「謝謝你。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ43hVmAtgRp
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLhdj8ru9wf
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ84KwRGL3MC
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk2vDlJJAtV
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmT3BvJJMA1
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmAInFf6mry
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXAb8tneOik
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoNUrel1oMo
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKOADfkI7mU
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIfX3mxRieN
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjAVkDAlJau
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8F2n5Dh1Hr
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBXDI05Y6vH
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUMKVQkoKgv
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2gttDngXYM
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOzSLvGAong
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz2JGYOUhmP
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrhhS1poQ7t
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ82Ipqc9x7P
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ74FFkSTmIj
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW25Cf9DkOk
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdzU3XFtM1P
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoWWhQkHmDp
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4DZt6YMOWg
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMgJN8ixrhI
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuojPVCr6OD
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5ZB4s2KNWQ
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8lwwOagTxZ
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡftE0oCCJvM
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ72UX22zV7l
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxUEOe7edTl
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcCgNZG4Itw
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn9zkytny1z
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBvFlX8ZVBX
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡerOYBZ613b
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiGcPw452ye
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs1IsNgfpDB
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyGKvAbdiZj
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1M7A0MLAbc
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7liYmKXSgc
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiV0PL46As2
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmCf0th0MGq
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKEyAvGejPp
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw0rPOZHPaa
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN7UFmZliL6
「是的。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzALmYOlmji
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7dFKeEdDGQ
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpnBBAygdLa
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHJ9MtvVAj7
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXxm2KNuWH8
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1GD3DvPiFN
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSFT7ZS8Yqu
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbsndcBfdDv
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrs8aNRsVUb
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSllFwdnegt
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh7BXmudS0o
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhLOciBNIRk
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTFLKTFZTtD
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFOKluKEe7x
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5HF77fcTyK
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI08o0jOpr9
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPlPfcpo7L0
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJbd3XO8bpe
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSz4Bw53hLG
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFL6rwctTML
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJFHPpKHksX
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqZJhQ7I7NH
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRzqNtRgKtL
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnKpcs6pK3f
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0ywa08sxra
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYFREmYrUoG
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9b2r2svIn5
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSf2KadDDqJ
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡydUE1ZXdyZ
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡczb8cC0Wm0
「太好了！」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ23iGFKIV2s
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8h3ZjLWAL9
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOrJpTZa5MK
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhmFqYlpl7z
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxUSwIoQ7pF
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxOsPEWTlE8
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrP6VBaUvYI
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ38RWeAuj38
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZExz7lUgrE
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7SbHSTiIOn
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwZeMWjPjis
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBqusQ1hFEA
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGEeyEFhxT6
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRmezwgcgyo
「好。」旭仔答。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQpI7F0s5ts
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtocnNyLZWl
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl3FI88bH2x
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGWCghL0HTp
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEpgbp4oRYa
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhh36lVttKw
旭仔淺嘗一口。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnwqVcnPTbp
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡueh5WT5CGp
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDsOzOkkx5p
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkzweBCqk8t
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfoIR2gfPcS
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfCYaewR253
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8sZDofKFhq
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYzYMz59Ate
「好喝。」旭仔答。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAuVigeyiJV
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwqx7YWHDvv
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIC27oaZp1C
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm0kr9J0f3o
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiuUNOZ63zQ
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCkbO9BojTq
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhbY33dQqiX
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTuW8TyRsz7
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnPOjJ0BNyN
527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTXIJEdqapr
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。527Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc86uCSAu5R
