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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrK6DXUvFfL
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡewVvFzAjku
「這麼早？」旭仔問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1F9oCcc0Vj
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWDN57tCA4O
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyAZ1zuRTeh
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcPqBvNZajY
「是啊，要趕路了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ywZlYNpxj
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqoaaJBnAAS
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡARTVxxvuqM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl28CqsFYWM
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgsgXXixGVM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwpd3vegGRd
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDlEoZbTNgX
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLtSv2m72kP
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJtIm8btVVD
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMDKSbUPpkr
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2KdcG9O0zR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLH4Gkt3wTJ
「謝謝你。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ21HaF0UliD
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1STOqjEbPh
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHNfsOkJ4bM
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV3l5Wf0qKi
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyxRiO5O0JC
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnZtkAv17h7
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlHXDIjsCee
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRCDAKOHy8p
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡghixIlTB8L
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaPjlIyPdZn
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf6pmT185jW
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyCzA47lY7i
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvr4lNLbacQ
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ9f34JKy9S
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6PMigqU3zy
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzLuwFHN29t
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyNu32mv91r
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHWFAMVR4CO
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQKbQ41jJhS
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2t0DQeWMUR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbR5U1jto56
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqG4R90Yh6t
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxH5hTwBIA6
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTxNijZ8WKT
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJKrXY5Dxfg
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNXxHDF74J8
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCFwPeC8EZE
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1h20Ju768u
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXcm1JUnekh
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJjJmMBgSao
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoWpuQ9oaS0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOfsdyFCLDh
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY0sY6HGSQq
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhBEFD5eTCp
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZNTtWMJzNO
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSglT1KUzaB
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLOuM6bMoHW
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLc29I3RIJK
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgC3b94PojL
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlVCYuh6hR6
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqD0JSnlYWp
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOsOEyPnfF5
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHTcU9fiokm
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlBuQpo2PG7
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd0gKF7qPSG
「是的。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaSpgCaobvj
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpcHSCEnyZP
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡokbDi3jq4A
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHtvQRjHh59
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqyYj85gJU0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNgHNnnhSPL
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOOFgH7ET9j
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHzo0QXUT5T
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSk2JV2hyRq
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0GNion2crR
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTfx8idfite
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8miYqdIhHR
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJk57uaEEyL
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZrdT2AemdH
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfYsvTyGjqF
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXUlnxhr3kW
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡosodBUoWtr
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ58IvkRyDJ
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH3Vh641KAk
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwLYU7uzu8d
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2N0lBxNszx
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUzp54CfoDE
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUmLQhy8kgK
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7VJzXlpVTw
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIv5ZbmDDOD
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcvG0PzZbU3
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCieu8GCIEV
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ25MQIW2Jwx
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLxMoE0oEgR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡscE4I3VwpB
「太好了！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj6DRmr8HtP
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBtTWkmbfGz
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnGV7TqKpUs
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA8cwoXBJeU
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPupPz6m3St
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPq5e4tRGCP
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHByM9zlKRu
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPASeVds6mD
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ4zOOJlCuA
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBaPZKumGIg
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaDCeTBYE0T
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGPPJImaJaP
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtjtSKjNiNh
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgVDedt11Mu
「好。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeuXkTzkXBq
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0R5Q8xeMgs
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi3kldBQCxq
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIvnmcHOiL0
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvVaLtp5pLu
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZuBu0Tl1w7
旭仔淺嘗一口。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoauxP0rQzo
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnXYUeVoc2N
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp8EalwQcLA
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXGcB9t7yIp
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhZ9ArG10FR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡttypB3PaXT
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡINyYfXseZM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNs0VI4iX4W
「好喝。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5YvvhMwwqn
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOwAMG4pUjq
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPqi9Ej25vs
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJr8KRnoi8g
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZQXi2cYZ4D
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKWhhgWI7uc
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeuIUSozaKf
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWgsKkXZjOQ
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxFrwjk2uga
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6l6xMKsJ1y
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJo9WlhbGaw
