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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcpYvbeCNpN
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuAjWm9OggF
「這麼早？」旭仔問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9O67cJJB7k
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV8vJcen5w6
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5SboyWkJDB
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWGw8KlYnqF
「是啊，要趕路了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0gKfjrVFlf
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqbnPPxxeCb
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYogKwRLaVu
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOJvyC2A8Pz
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZAJi3trDXH
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEW0SzT1Hy7
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBQMsrwF3bw
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH0qy5tC706
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUaGk7lIdgm
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKHpCWSWD4K
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz5W96lt9Uz
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgVMJPiyebq
「謝謝你。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfc0wPrG9GQ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0nlYwdu73L
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUboGlrYWWC
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6JbUqRozyl
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT3CT2DktmV
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzmztk1dlnj
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5kSg8xwSxa
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiUa37uUERI
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNWwG7jGDRG
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHqOpPxpS5A
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2Qdq7srxSH
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfldzRASEgi
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOa2GtvacE4
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZeTdydWKai
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFBBKEb4gtA
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡelekbLF5fU
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1N6jLkQOiN
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0wCElN2LKk
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfayzaSqDKz
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7LvfAOMiZ3
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoj8nWRs8pU
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnEyag835Fb
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡel05m64Q53
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ89coh8TfL3
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLOvCxpLnOm
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9EOGXh6OhI
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡswD9qTEVH2
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVJYPyMTYbT
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMc1uBaJv16
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeUQhNVTJYB
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT2PKvt5LnY
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8CnCAkjGxP
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHThTUictdT
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2j8XZ0JCDx
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuHqG1xtw14
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxmnwSxSxNR
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU8pZUVDqAt
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWJ1F8bqDJF
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDj9e9RpNjT
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxLoybULcte
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA5AVmRm2tN
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXqvuHWWbvq
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA5oT2KKlHo
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjUUKJ8qzEq
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZQSuaz3zvs
「是的。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLCCcEntndp
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTw5iwzOqfX
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAJwJi7sUk0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmQyuzsk3pc
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmQjAzX71FR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjguhIdbATH
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpxTdjS76Ht
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx3jLT8Tfrz
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwMlHek85PV
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ9OpQa8CfI
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfl1piMqhSW
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv4mp3uSlt3
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbCFNvpk16E
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuxW9GShzRn
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPHpdCfcdsg
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2znqojzkjS
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGzzZqxAblP
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfWa9jeawu5
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIdI3z0bxHb
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5R6susUNtZ
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT8vzd9LKek
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ828fPXUY2U
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLihTEQeKNc
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmTayB3hDYo
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6fFKsq5qOE
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUQVncjkaJX
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE2Wpl6al3t
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLfzcx7TykO
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡheaU0IJj0r
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE4UDtsxcHl
「太好了！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4VPeVy5M6V
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGs8PAHruAv
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ97tM6M2Myl
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpTvoAqNBEj
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXqkkpz9lPp
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX7b9TgRGSN
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpNFvQbvEB9
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ5aD3hJ2lo
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrSMKuMJdeD
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8j40ay85Ik
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWm2KKhdMsk
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6MjmCY4XNL
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4clKSSWbR7
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVeSYpW8JFb
「好。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBmD6nAJ3UE
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGkK17PyZxy
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7HAQ17G7mN
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqf6Av8Cmya
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRLsg6Ze8X8
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡteiHuwZO2x
旭仔淺嘗一口。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSWLevtItUr
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbDGZCbostV
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs8aVEr7uxM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOZAJskYn8A
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWBZUHNo8t0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAEOKFlIPF5
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvSAMmgHqvE
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE06DysdNqn
「好喝。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRrHzs5QDFW
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpqFzAKCmxD
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkhXYd88Da8
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW87xoexAbP
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9i7lFZJ9zG
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXsmwHGjWDN
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3PrqoJVlFt
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFVgggFV29b
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAj8aq4vvTG
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK0T1vSIFdR
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQcBREAo8zT
